Red Lion, London

Although one of London’s smallest pubs, this packs in an exceptional amount of exuberant Victorian decoration.

It is reassuring to know that a pub as tiny as this Victorian gem can still survive in central London, and not only that but its interior is one of the most spectacular in the capital. It was built in 1821 but in 1871 architect W. H. Rawlings gave it a new frontage containing three entrances, two of them topped by grand arches. The doors are evidence that the pub was originally sub-divided into separate areas, with ‘Public Bar’ and ‘Private Bar’ announced in the glass in the doors.  Inside is now all one – two connecting doors having long ago been removed - and snakes around the central serving area. Part of an original screen – above a now-absent connecting door – survives. All areas have elaborate ornamental ceilings. What make the Red Lion special are the superlative etched and cut mirrors which line the walls on the right and at the rear.  They create brilliant, glittering reflections which conjure up a magical atmosphere far removed from the prosaic world of everyday life beyond the pub.  They may have been part of the 1871 refit but are perhaps more likely to have been installed slightly later, possibly in the 1890s when such excesses were more common. Fortunately one original connecting door (between the rear area and the stairs) has been retained and its coloured, patterned glass testifies to how the two ‘missing’ doors must have looked.  Other decorative glass – such as that within six panels at the top of the bar-back – contains etched patterns with gold-tinted inlays.

The bar counter has drop-down panels for servicing beer engines in former times – you can see the remains of keyholes. In the rear area, the counter swells out pleasingly – quite unnecessary but a nice touch. The gantry above the counter is a modern but sympathetic addition. Currently leased to Fuller’s, the pub is owned by the Crown Estate – i. e. King Charles.  To its credit the pub has refused to do what so many pubs have done - convert the upper floors to flats which are entirely separate from the pub. Instead they contain an office, a kitchen and living quarters for the manager.