CAMRA’s recent campaign to take on multinational beer masquerading as local craft is not only admirable but brave in its scope. Yes, most of us know that Madri is brewed in the UK by Molson Coors, not in Madrid by a Spanish gentleman wearing a cue-dot waistcoat but it’s not an excepcional example in terms of how big beer has little care for provenance.
Although, it’s arguable either way that provenance is something consumers care more or less about than in the past, but if you do sincerely believe that people don’t mind where their pint is brewed then why not give the location? Why should beer differ from other products?
The Campaign is courageous in its messaging because it potentially puts CAMRA at odds with a range of bedfellows from the chain pubs stocking macros where members spend their vouchers to a few breweries. If we are keen for openness and honesty in provenance then maybe this is something that could be a start of an awkward conversation for some British brewers too?
Smash cut to South London. Recently I had a choice of Harvey’s Best, London Pride or a white-label beer at a bar which had the pub’s name. The server wasn’t a cask aficionado and just said it was a “bitter” that was popular. After a taster I could tell it was a very familiar tipple, and the locals shared my raised eyebrow. I took the plunge though mainly out of embarrassment in a busy bar.
I slowly realised this was a pint of Greene King IPA and at £5.50 was probably the most expensive one I’ve bought. It was the drink my father loved, and I had the same nostalgic East Anglian hit with every sip. It’s just as Directors Bitter-fan Alan Partridge would say “They’ve rebadged it; you fool!”
Now you would think this pint (which was superbly conditioned) would lead me to write an article hoping to spark universal outrage especially as it is nearly £4 cheaper nearby. But I asked an experienced publican for his thoughts and he said, “it’s naff, so I don’t do it, but honestly drinkers love seeing it”. If you visit an adored pub regularly then you may want to drink a beer named after it.
Maybe it’s great that people show more brand loyalty to a pub rather than a beer?
However, another friend I told this story to just laughed as he thought I had been suckered in. So, who is right? Are you a fan of a white-label beer? Should the pump clip have said “X Ale” brewed by Greene King?
