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Heritage Pub

Coach & Horses, London

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Operator: Fuller's
29 Greek Street, Soho, London, W1D 5DH (View on Google Map)
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First licensed in 1724 the pub was most recently rebuilt in 1889 and is Grade II listed. The name of course derives from horse-drawn coaches and it is thought that a type of shuttle service ran from this site to the Smithfield Market area, the main starting-point for coaches going north.

The venue is now a very good example of 1930s pub-fitting with spittoon troughs, bar back and wall panelling all surviving from that era, plus some Art Deco lino floor tiles. The pub was added to the CAMRA National Inventory in summer 2019 because of its 1930s interior. The Historic England listing is number 1235282 and was last enhanced in Feb 2020; the listing contains fascinating details about the site history and includes references to CAMRA.

Following cessation of a previous tenancy, this became a Fuller's managed house with the iconic piano singalongs continuing on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Bar snacks are on offer but no substantial food.

The pub hosts occasional showings of the play "Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell" by Keith Waterhouse, see Historic Interest entry. Ticket prices are for Seated, Bar Stool, or Standing, but all much cheaper then your average West End show.

Historic Interest

The columnist Jeffrey Bernard used to be famously "unwell" for duty after being in this pub, and its former landlord Norman Balon who retired in 2006 liked to be known as "London's rudest landlord". He is remembered in the pub sign! Known as a gathering place for writers & thinkers, the pub hosted for many years until 2014 the fortnightly Private Eye editorial lunch sessions. Simultaneously there were often Special Branch officers downstairs posing as ordinary drinkers and looking out for anyone of interest to them. The July 2019 issue of The Oldie magazine carried an interview with Norman Balon, then aged 92, and a marvellous Heath cartoon of the pub and its then-regulars in 1986.

Information for this venue is provided by the West London Branch of CAMRA
Previous Names
Norman's; Normans
Local Authority
Westminster
Last updated
23/01/2025
Last surveyed
30/06/2019
Leasehold owner
Fuller Smith & Turner
Freehold owner
Fuller Smith & Turner
Pub ID
WLD/16225
Asset of Community Value

Three star - A pub interior of outstanding national historic importance

Listed status: II

A Soho institution with a substantially complete Taylor, Walker & Co interior of 1937.

 

The Coach and Horses was built in the 1840s, though the distinctive pub frontage belongs to an 1889 remodelling by the Cannon Brewery. This work added the imposing cast-iron columns, with ornamental necks and weighty square capitals of a type not seen elsewhere in London. The interior belongs chiefly to another phase of remodelling in 1937, undertaken following a takeover by Taylor, Walker & Co, who fitted-out the three distinct bar rooms with simple light-oak panelling, partition screens, and a long, tapered bar counter with mostly contemporary bar-back shelving. The pub has three separate bars, each originally with its own entrance. The public bar is on the Greek Street side, with a private bar in the middle and a saloon bar entered around the corner from Romilly Street. The two entrances to the saloon bar demonstrate that the 1937 refit amalgamated formerly distinct rooms from the 1889 arrangement. The three rooms are separated by two walls running out from the bar, fitted with fielded panelling with wide openings where doors would have been (these removed around 1960). The servery runs along the back wall and the long counter has an inset red linoleum top. The bar-back runs in line with the counter and the upper section straddling the doorway to the first floor has back-lit signage advertising ‘Double Diamond’, ‘Ind Coope’ and ‘Skol Lager’, which was introduced following another takeover in 1959 by Ind Coope (though draught Double Diamond was only introduced in 1962, so this signage must be slightly later). There are several subtle but instructive differences to the bar counter which reflect the status of each of the rooms. To the public bar, the countertop overhangs the tapered counter and this, along with the absence of a terrazzo riser, appears to have been designed to accommodate bar stools. Drinking at the bar was generally discouraged in smarter bar rooms into the 1930s and, correspondingly, the private bar has a much narrower counter with a substantial terrazzo riser, seemingly contrived to deter bar drinkers here. The saloon bar, as the smartest room in the pub, continues the counter profile and the terrazzo riser of the private bar, but drinkers here were afforded an additional degree of comfort through the inclusion of a brick fireplace, WCs and also the service of hot meals, which could be sent down via a dumbwaiter integrated within the panelling of the east wall.

 

Between 1943 and 2006, drinkers entering the Coach and Horses would be greeted (in the loosest sense) by Norman Balon, the self-proclaimed ‘rudest landlord in London’. Balon’s tenure - recollected in his 1991 memoir ‘You're Barred, You Bastards’ - saw it favoured by the writers, artists, musicians and actors of Soho: amongst the many notable regulars were Jeffrey Bernard, Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud, Peter O’Toole and John Hurt. Something of the bohemian, debauched atmosphere of the pub was captured in Keith Waterhouse’s 1989 play ‘Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell’, with the saloon bar recreated for the stage of the nearby Apollo Theatre. From the 1960s, the pub was also a regular meeting place for staff of The Spectator and Private Eye, the pages of which often included references to ‘the Coach’ (most notably in Jeffrey Bernard’s ‘Low Life’ Spectator column and Michael Heath’s cartoon strip ‘The Regulars’ in Private Eye).

A Soho institution with a substantially complete Taylor, Walker & Co interior of 1937.

The Coach and Horses was built in the 1840s, though the distinctive pub frontage belongs to an 1889 remodelling by the Cannon Brewery. This work added the imposing cast-iron columns, with ornamental necks and weighty square capitals of a type not seen elsewhere in London. The interior belongs chiefly to another phase of remodelling in 1937, undertaken following a takeover by Taylor, Walker & Co, who fitted-out the three distinct bar rooms with simple light-oak panelling, partition screens, and a long, tapered bar counter with mostly contemporary bar-back shelving. The pub has three separate bars, each originally with its own entrance. The public bar is on the Greek Street side, with a private bar in the middle and a saloon bar entered around the corner from Romilly Street. The two entrances to the saloon bar demonstrate that the 1937 refit amalgamated formerly distinct rooms from the 1889 arrangement. The three rooms are separated by two walls running out from the bar, fitted with fielded panelling with wide openings where doors would have been (these removed around 1960). The servery runs along the back wall and the long counter has an inset red linoleum top. The bar-back runs in line with the counter and the upper section straddling the doorway to the first floor has back-lit signage advertising ‘Double Diamond’, ‘Ind Coope’ and ‘Skol Lager’, which was introduced following another takeover in 1959 by Ind Coope (though draught Double Diamond was only introduced in 1962, so this signage must be slightly later). There are several subtle but instructive differences to the bar counter which reflect the status of each of the rooms. To the public bar, the countertop overhangs the tapered counter and this, along with the absence of a terrazzo riser, appears to have been designed to accommodate bar stools. Drinking at the bar was generally discouraged in smarter bar rooms into the 1930s and, correspondingly, the private bar has a much narrower counter with a substantial terrazzo riser, seemingly contrived to deter bar drinkers here. The saloon bar, as the smartest room in the pub, continues the counter profile and the terrazzo riser of the private bar, but drinkers here were afforded an additional degree of comfort through the inclusion of a brick fireplace, WCs and also the service of hot meals, which could be sent down via a dumbwaiter integrated within the panelling of the east wall.

Between 1943 and 2006, drinkers entering the Coach and Horses would be greeted (in the loosest sense) by Norman Balon, the self-proclaimed ‘rudest landlord in London’. Balon’s tenure - recollected in his 1991 memoir ‘You're Barred, You Bastards’ - saw it favoured by the writers, artists, musicians and actors of Soho: amongst the many notable regulars were Jeffrey Bernard, Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud, Peter O’Toole and John Hurt. Something of the bohemian, debauched atmosphere of the pub was captured in Keith Waterhouse’s 1989 play ‘Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell’, with the saloon bar recreated for the stage of the nearby Apollo Theatre. From the 1960s, the pub was also a regular meeting place for staff of The Spectator and Private Eye, the pages of which often included references to ‘the Coach’ (most notably in Jeffrey Bernard’s ‘Low Life’ Spectator column and Michael Heath’s cartoon strip ‘The Regulars’ in Private Eye).

General information about historic pub interiors

A four storey building of rendered brick dated around 1840 (the pub itself announces a date of 1847, although the basis for this is not clear). At the end of the C19, during the London ‘pub boom’ years, the freehold was held by the Cannon Brewery and as part of their remodelling in 1889 the frontage was redesigned and a row of twelve slender, fluted, cast-iron columns with enriched ornamental necks and substantial square capitals were added on both street façades supporting the upper floors. In 1930 Cannon Brewery was taken over by Taylor, Walker & Co., who in 1937 carried out a refit of the interior and this work survives largely intact.

The pub has three separate bars each originally with its own entrance - Public Bar on the Greek Street side; Private Bar in the middle; and Saloon Bar with its entrance on the Romilly Street side. The Saloon Bar has both a double door on the left-hand of the Greek Street end and a single door on the corner so it is possible that there was an off sales in the past? Or they may be original Victorian entrances and this bar has only been a single space since the inter-war refit?

The rooms are divided by walls with interwar panelling to two-thirds height and with double doors. The doors for the central partition screens were removed in around 1960 and appear to have been reused in the entrance screen to the women’s WC (built in line with post-war licensing requirements). It is now easy to move between all three bars but the original three-roomed layout still remains. There were some interwar windows advertising ‘Wines & Spirits’ in red on frosted glass and ‘Luncheons’ on Romilly Street side but they have been replaced by toughened glass panels in recent years.

The interior is fitted-out with simple light-oak interwar panelling. The three bars have tapered wooden bar counters with a linoleum inlay to the top from 1937 as is date of the bar-back shelving. The top section of the right-hand part of the bar back, which straddles the doorway leading to the first floor, has back-lit signage advertising ‘Double Diamond’, ‘Ind Coope’ and ‘Skol Lager’ which looks to have been integrated about 1962. Taylor, Walker & Co were taken-over by Ind Coope in 1959, the same year Skol was launched; also, Draught Double Diamond was introduced in 1962. This part of the bar back with its glass shelves looks different to the smaller one to the left.

It is interesting to note the subtle differences between each room reflecting the status of the clientele that used it. The left-hand Public Bar has an overhanging counter top, which, combined with the tapered counter and the lack of a spittoon trough here, appears to have been designed to accommodate bar stools at this corner of the servery. The middle Private Bar has a spittoon trough between the wooden frontage and the carpet, and the counter top is narrower than that in the first room. At the base of the bar counter the terrazzo trough continues from the adjacent saloon bar.

Drinking at the bar was generally discouraged in the smarter bar rooms in the 1930s and, correspondingly, the right-hand Saloon Bar has a much narrower counter top and a substantial terrazzo trough that runs around the corner at the base (this with unusual (unique?) removable panels with ring-pulls for ease of cleaning). An additional degree of comfort is afforded in the saloon by the original brick fireplace at the north side of the room and meals could be sent down via a dumbwaiter, which is integrated within the panelling to the east wall.

The doors to the toilets have narrow oak doors but both gents and ladies’ have modern tiled walls and modern fittings – it is possible they have been changed around in recent years?

The upper floors appear to have never been intended for public use (at least the awkward route through the bar servery strongly implies it was a later change). On the first floor on the Greek Street side is a dining/function room formed of two originally distinct domestic rooms. Several features from around 1840 are retained including a fitted cupboard, a decorative plaster cornice and two simple, moulded fire surrounds with cheek tiles and cast-iron insets.

On the curved Inn sign over the first and second floors it states “Norman’s” as the pub was run by Norman Balon, the self proclaimed ‘Rudest landlord In London’. He left the pub in 2006 aged 79 and was likely to be the main reason why the pub’s interior is so little changed. There was no juke box or piped music but the day the tenants that followed Mr Balon left the pub a contractor for Fullers was knocking on the door to install background music.

Some information from ‘You’re Barred You Bastards: The Memoirs of a Soho Publican Hardcover’ (1991) by Norman Balon (Author) and Spencer Bright (Collaborator) ISBN: 9780283997624.

The following details come from an article by Christopher Howse that appeared in The Telegraph dated 23 May 2006.

‘For 40 years, Private Eye has held its fortnightly lunches for informants and prominent people in a chill room upstairs once described as "a National Health side-ward decorated from Army surplus stores". Richard Ingrams, co-founder and second editor of the satirical magazine, William Rushton and Peter Cook and the rest came over the road for lunch each day. Norman soon figured as "Monty Balon, the genial meinhost" in the magazine. In turn, Mr Balon invented Jeffrey Bernard, who used the pub as an office and had a supply of Senior Service cigarettes kept for him in the cupboard by the stairs. Immortality came in 1989 with Keith Waterhouse's play Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell, a sell-out with Peter O'Toole in title role and the pub interior as the set. Mr Balon would refer to it as "My play".

Norman Balon’s father took on the tenancy on Feb 3, 1943, a noisy time in London. Norman, just turned 16, left school to help. They sheltered in the cellar during air raids. The top-floor room where young Norman slept was in recent years used as a studio, first by Richard Ingrams's son, Fred, then by the successful painter Rupert Shrive. Painters always drank in the pub: Francis Bacon sometimes, Lucian Freud generously, Frank Auerbach intently in conversation with Bruce Bernard, a writer about painting.’

General information about historic pub interiors
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Monday
Noon - 11:00pm
Tuesday
Noon - 11:00pm
Wednesday
Noon - 11:00pm
Thursday
Noon - 11:00pm
Friday
Noon - 11:00pm
Saturday
Noon - 11:00pm
Sunday
Noon - 8:00pm

Current beers

This Pub serves 3 changing beers and 2 regular beers.

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Coach & Horses, London

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Facilities
Live Music Live Music
Family Friendly Family Friendly
Disabled Access Disabled Access
Guide dogs welcomed
Dog Friendly Dog Friendly
Events Events
See description
Function Room Function Room
Smoking Smoking
Outside seating
Wi Fi Wi Fi
Features
Real Ale Real Ale
Real Heritage Pub Real Heritage Pub
Member Discount Scheme Member Discount Scheme
15% off real ales
Transport
Close to bus routes
Nearby Station (700m)
London Charing Cross
Close to London Underground/Overground/DLR (250m)
Leicester Square

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