In news that will have seen some beer writers crying into their gifted Fuller’s Vintage Ales, HMRC has recently clarified that content creators must declare all donations as income on their self-assessment tax return.
That’s right. Those crates of beer, jets to foreign breweries and VIP festival passes will now have to be taxed at their market value. (Disclaimer: this is HMRC so some of the guidelines are as muddy as a drain pour smoothie IPA.)
It’s caused a few privileged writers to heroically proclaim that they are now refusing unpaid press trips and goodie bags. These virtuous announcements can only mean that a period of austerity will have to be endured; if you see a downtrodden freelance scribe at the bar, maybe buy them a half.
At this point, you’re probably wondering why I’m relishing the news so much as I – full disclosure – have received such largesse in the past? As it turns out I’m as weak as a table beer and a hypocrite to boot.
But I’m jolly because when I consider the ramifications it could mean a recalibration of how writers look at beer. Your local pub or small brewery won’t have the funds to offer substantial gifts and hospitality and these are the establishments that need to be championed the most by the media.
I have two examples which show how writers historically have failed beer by only covering the grand. Firstly, on a trip recently to the first micropub, the Butcher’s Arms in Herne, Kent, the publican Martyn Hillier told me decades ago he had to pay a prominent writer expenses to travel there and instead of seeing how inspiring the place was, they complained about the length of the journey. These days the commission – and trip – I hope would be relished by most.
Micropubs should’ve been championed at the start of the century and more should’ve been publicised about how they can rejuvenate high streets well before Martyn’s speech to the CAMRA AGM in 2009.
Secondly, for years I’ve been messaged by publicans and brewers who despise the narrative that says only big breweries and tied pubs can save beer. SIBA has told me that cask beer sales are growing in the independent sector – which even includes large brewers, such as St Austell – but the only demise is in the multinational portfolios. Look at the success of Boddington’s, brewed by family firm JW Lees, which has seen its distributor inundated with queries for cask from across the UK.
I’m sure this detail wouldn’t have been so overlooked if it wasn’t so damn inconvenient.
There’s also something a bit icky about how so many in the trade will uncritically boast about their free hauls online – as was shown when mixed martial artist (MMA) Conor McGregor’s brewery Forged sent out crates of Irish stout, pint glasses and baseball caps.
The same MMA who has faced numerous charges throughout his professional life for assault, disorderly conduct, driving offences and rape.
Freebies are also the reason why every year your social media feeds will fill up with photos of drinks, such as Fuller’s Vintage Ales courtesy of Asahi Group Holdings, net worth £13bn.
The counter argument – which is persuasive – is that these types of gifts are needed because writers are under paid, the fees keep decreasing and novices (especially those from underrepresented backgrounds) struggle to fund their careers. How could one fund beer reviews or maintain their knowledge without a few free bottles?
I would say, though, that writing needs to speak truth to power and this is impossible when one becomes compromised by gifts; there’s a reason why a large multinational wants hacks to see its shiny new brewery complete with infra-red control forklifts. It’s also obvious why an MMA wants good press when they have to defend rape allegations.
And if we want to support those that are historically underrepresented in the media, who are championing the small, then please subscribe or donate to their independent websites, blogs and newsletters.
Whatever the case, I’m optimistic that this HMRC policy could have the knock-on effect of ensuring more underrepresented voices gain a voice in the beer world.
