Laura Hadland

Beer dispense containers 

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The History

On Cheetham Hill Road in Manchester, a Ukrainian Social Club was established in 1929 on a single rented floor. One of the key founders was Joseph Lesniowsky, who had come to the UK in around 1909 and became an important leader for the Ukrainian community. They moved premises several times before purchasing 188 Cheetham Hill Road in 1943. The bar in the club gave the centre an income to sustain its activities. 

This club was heavily used during WWII. Ukrainians serving in the Polish Armed Forces under British command and those serving in the Canadian and US armies stationed in the UK came to join in the social and cultural activities that took place there.

After the war, there was another stream of people who gained a much-needed warm welcome at the Manchester Ukrainian Club. This wave of immigrants and displaced people who came to Britain in the aftermath of WWII are often referred to as the ‘old immigrants’ (stari emihiranty). They arrived from Displaced Persons camps in Western Germany, Austria and Italy. Some had been taken from their homes as forced labour by the Germans. Others had fled in fear of Soviet rule.

The Manchester Club still exists in the Cheetham Hill area, presently located on Smedley Road. But It wasn’t just this city that welcomed the new arrivals. Ukrainian communities and their social clubs were set up around the country.

Bradford Ukrainian Club

Ewhen Chymera is the Director of the Bradford Ukrainian Club. A 3rd generation Ukrainian, his grandparents were among the founding members of the club, which was established in 1948. His grandparents had worked in German labour camps and were unable to return home – those that did go back to Soviet Union-held Ukraine were declared traitors by Stalin and sent to the gulags.

They arrived in Bradford after the war as refugees and worked in the textile mills where plenty of jobs were available. Ewhen’s grandparents were two of some 2000 active members of the Ukrainian Association in the town when it was first formed.

The Bradford Club bought premises on Claremont in 1950. Cultural activities like a choir, dance ensemble and sports clubs were established and flourished. A Ukrainian Saturday School was established in 1953 that supported over 100 children in the social club.

As the community established itself, grew and integrated it needed a new space. A larger venue was secured on Legrams Lane in 1981 which remains home to the club today. 

“You get soft, almost wine like aromatics, refeshing… acidity and apple driven, when you try Kent and Eastern style ciders”

— Alison Taffs

“People wanted to gather together in their free time, whenever they could,” Ewhen explains to me. “To speak their own language, and discuss the politics of the time, much like other social and working men’s clubs up and down the country.”

The first waves of Ukrainian settlers came from Western Ukraine in the main, so they always leant towards Ukrainian independence. As well as creating “a little Ukraine, a home away from home” they wanted to increase support for their cause in the UK. They would fundraise for the fight for freedom. The first generation took to the streets to demonstrate for causes like the release of political prisoners and the rights of the Ukrainian church in the 1950s and 60s.

The most recent influx of Ukrainians, since the start of Russia’s full-scale invasion in February 2022, has added a new dimension to their efforts to preserve Ukrainian social, political and cultural life in the UK. The Bradford Ukrainian Club, like others around the country, has been a mouthpiece for those displaced people, catching the attention of British politicians to raise awareness. They also provide practical support like facilitating access to driving licences and ESOL (English as a Second Language) lessons. Perhaps more importantly, they have also provided a much-needed resource for British sponsors in the Homes for Ukraine scheme, helping them to break down linguistic and cultural barriers.

“People wanted to gather together in their free time, whenever they could,” Ewhen explains to me. “To speak their own language, and discuss the politics of the time, much like other social and working men’s clubs up and down the country.”

The first waves of Ukrainian settlers came from Western Ukraine in the main, so they always leant towards Ukrainian independence. As well as creating “a little Ukraine, a home away from home” they wanted to increase support for their cause in the UK. They would fundraise for the fight for freedom. The first generation took to the streets to demonstrate for causes like the release of political prisoners and the rights of the Ukrainian church in the 1950s and 60s.

The most recent influx of Ukrainians, since the start of Russia’s full-scale invasion in February 2022, has added a new dimension to their efforts to preserve Ukrainian social, political and cultural life in the UK. The Bradford Ukrainian Club, like others around the country, has been a mouthpiece for those displaced people, catching the attention of British politicians to raise awareness. They also provide practical support like facilitating access to driving licences and ESOL (English as a Second Language) lessons. Perhaps more importantly, they have also provided a much-needed resource for British sponsors in the Homes for Ukraine scheme, helping them to break down linguistic and cultural barriers.

Ukrainian Beer

Ukraine is a part of the Eastern European vodka belt. Vodkas and flavoured vodkas are consumed copiously in the Bradford Ukrainian Club. That said, beer is also now an important part of the Ukrainian drinking heritage, with its popularity picking up considerably in the last 20 years as the craft beer and brewpub trends hit the nation.

As you might expect, the most common beers on offer in Ukraine are lagers influenced by German producers. Ewhen told me a little more about the beverages that have been served at the club over the decades:

“For a long time, Ukrainian beer wasn’t available in the UK so we drank what everybody else drank. Tetleys, John Smiths or whatever was brewed locally.”

Tetleys is on draught at the Carlsberg-tied club alongside a couple of lagers and they only recently stopped serving Tetleys Mild after lockdown. The Ukrainian club in Manchester serve JW Lees in their bar.

In the 1980s, Bradford created the ‘Pils Convention’. Second-generation Ukrainians loaded up their cars with Holsten Pils, a vat of curry from one of Bradford’s famous restaurants and headed to the Ukrainian camp in Weston-on-Trent to help with maintenance work over the weekends.

“The most recent influx of Ukrainians, since the start of Russia’s full-scale invasion in February 2022, has added a new dimension to their efforts to preserve Ukrainian social, political and cultural life in the UK.”

— Laura Hadland. 

“You get soft, almost wine like aromatics, refeshing… acidity and apple driven, when you try Kent and Eastern style ciders”

— Alison Taffs

“About 20 years ago, Ukrainian beer started appearing for purchase in the UK,” Ewhen continues. “It started with Obolon, Ukraine’s biggest independent brewer. They tend to export only lagers so we had various types of those [at the club]. More recently, we’ve sold Lvivske, from the city of Lviv, owned by Carlsberg. And Persha Pryvatna Brovarnya, who make a lot of traditional Eastern European styles like dunkels, Baltic porters and wheat beers.” The Bradford club is unique in having a permanent Ukrainian craft ale draught on tap, as well as a rotation of cans.

Ewhen has been keen to support the growth of the Ukrainian craft brewing movement, which started with Varvar Brew, founded in 2012. Ukraine has even evolved its own beer style, Ukrainian Golden Ale, as described by the wonderful Lana Svitankova. While brewing has been hampered, or ceased entirely, in Ukraine because of the Russian invasion, there have been a phenomenal number of collaborations with UK breweries – and others around the world – to keep the flame alive. Thanks to this, the Bradford Club’s 10th annual beer festival – Pyvofest – in 2023 was able to feature 65 different Ukrainian beers, with 35 made in collaboration with breweries in the UK.

In April 2022, the Hertfordshire-based importer and distributor Euroboozer embarked on a mission to rescue stock from Varvar, at the heart of the warzone.

“About 20 years ago, Ukrainian beer started appearing for purchase in the UK,” Ewhen continues. “It started with Obolon, Ukraine’s biggest independent brewer. They tend to export only lagers so we had various types of those [at the club]. More recently, we’ve sold Lvivske, from the city of Lviv, owned by Carlsberg. And Persha Pryvatna Brovarnya, who make a lot of traditional Eastern European styles like dunkels, Baltic porters and wheat beers.” The Bradford club is unique in having a permanent Ukrainian craft ale draught on tap, as well as a rotation of cans.

Ewhen has been keen to support the growth of the Ukrainian craft brewing movement, which started with Varvar Brew, founded in 2012. Ukraine has even evolved its own beer style, Ukrainian Golden Ale, as described by the wonderful Lana Svitankova. While brewing has been hampered, or ceased entirely, in Ukraine because of the Russian invasion, there have been a phenomenal number of collaborations with UK breweries – and others around the world – to keep the flame alive. Thanks to this, the Bradford Club’s 10th annual beer festival – Pyvofest – in 2023 was able to feature 65 different Ukrainian beers, with 35 made in collaboration with breweries in the UK.

In April 2022, the Hertfordshire-based importer and distributor Euroboozer embarked on a mission to rescue stock from Varvar, at the heart of the warzone.

“Our brewery has been unable to operate since the war began,” said Martin Dawson of Varvar said at the time. “ We have stock in our warehouse in Kyiv that we are desperately looking to sell. The situation in Kyiv is unpredictable, and we don’t know exactly how many days we will still be able to get our hands on our beer.”

The Euroboozer team sent a lorry which safely brought 30,000 pints back to the UK, which had all been pre-ordered by 178 venues nationwide – including the Bradford Ukrainian Club. As well as paying full price to Varvar for the beer, all profits were donated to Drinkers for Ukraine to support the humanitarian effort in the country.

“The order we put in for the brewery was huge,” said Euroboozer’s founder, Martyn Railton. “This allowed them to move stock on, empty some tanks and get in some much-needed cash for their team and their country.

“Even though we didn’t know them, we were helping fellow friends out in the beer industry who had quite literally come under attack. We knew people who had to escape the area and other breweries that were sadly razed to the ground. It seems the efforts we went to made a real difference. Even the truck driver, who quite honestly risked his life to bring the beer out of Ukraine, got quite emotional when he understood what we were doing.”

As well as making sure that Varvar beers were available in their bar, the Bradford Ukrainian Club has also collaborated with Keighley-based Wishbone Brewery.

“I’d been thinking about doing a beer to support Ukraine right from the start of the invasion, but we didn’t get around to it at the time due to other production,” said brewer Adrian Chapman. “It seemed fitting that we produce a beer with the folks from Bradford’s Ukrainian Club around the one-year anniversary of the invasion and we hope it gives people a reminder that the conflict is ongoing and that support is still greatly needed to defeat the utter stupidity of Putin. We’ve all got to care about our fellow humans.”

The aptly named Go **** Yourself unfiltered lager was made using Ukrainian-grown hops. They tracked down a Canadian hop merchant with stock and had them shipped over by boat.

“The Klon-18 hops are reminiscent of the Czech Saaz variety with a good floral spicy character,” Adrian explains.

As well as making sure that Varvar beers were available in their bar, the Bradford Ukrainian Club has also collaborated with Keighley-based Wishbone Brewery.

“I’d been thinking about doing a beer to support Ukraine right from the start of the invasion, but we didn’t get around to it at the time due to other production,” said brewer Adrian Chapman. “It seemed fitting that we produce a beer with the folks from Bradford’s Ukrainian Club around the one-year anniversary of the invasion and we hope it gives people a reminder that the conflict is ongoing and that support is still greatly needed to defeat the utter stupidity of Putin. We’ve all got to care about our fellow humans.”

The aptly named Go **** Yourself unfiltered lager was made using Ukrainian-grown hops. They tracked down a Canadian hop merchant with stock and had them shipped over by boat.

“The Klon-18 hops are reminiscent of the Czech Saaz variety with a good floral spicy character,” Adrian explains.

Edinburgh Ukrainian Club

I spoke to Peter Kormylo, the 72-year-old Club Archivist at the Edinburgh Ukrainian Club. This branch of the Association of Ukrainians in Great Britain actually represents the whole of Scotland. Peter describes the arrival of what he terms the ‘Old Diaspora’ in very similar terms as I heard from Bradford.

“When they first came they were contracted to five industries; farming, fishing, textiles, mining and forestry,” Peter explains. “A lot of the guys in Edinburgh were attracted to physical jobs because when they arrived in this country their professional qualifications weren’t ratified.

“Guys who work physically do enjoy a good pint. That’s why in the Old Diaspora days the bar was heaving. You had to beat your way through to get a pint! Things are a bit more sedate these days. It’s not a rowdy place, it’s measured and respectable. If you want to touch Ukrainian culture in Scotland, our club is the place.”

Their Club is located at 14 Royal Terrace in Edinburgh, an upgrade from its original location on Windsor Street. The grand Georgian townhouse is “quite posh” Peter tells me. “And we try to keep it posh, so we’ve spent a lot of money renovating it, with an appreciation of its historic construction.”

The bar is located on the basement floor, along with a kitchen facility and dining area. A large function hall is on the ground floor. They used to serve McEwan’s ales, but now Belhaven is on the bar, alongside imported bottles of Ukrainian beer from breweries like Obolon. Interestingly, the arrival of a new cohort of Ukrainians since the Russian invasion has breathed new life into this community, in Peter’s opinion:

“It’s quite a vibrant building, all in all, and more so now with the refugees that have arrived since last year. The place now buzzes. The Old Diaspora kept hold of the building and have spent many years renovating it. Now that we’ve got a fresh influx of displaced persons we can see the building being kept in use well in the future. The invasion is the cloud, the silver lining is the arrival of many, many talented Ukrainians.”

On high days and holidays, the club attracts people from all over the country. Traditional foods are served that are perfect for sharing at communal celebrations, like the beetroot soup, borscht. This also serves as a vehicle for sharing stories, because everybody’s got their own version of borscht. And everyone thinks their granny’s borscht is the best, of course.

Food has been a focal point of integration with the local community over the years. Dances and gatherings at the Club have always included a cohort of Scottish friends. Over the last decade or so, the Club has hosted annual Burns-Shevchenko Suppers, co-celebrating Robert Burns, the national poet of Scotland, and Taras Shevchenko, the national poet of Ukraine. Guests enjoy a mixture of traditional Scottish and Ukrainian entertainments, along with a liberal helping of both haggis with whisky and borscht with vodka.

“It’s always been punter friendly, not a problem, but now it’s more acceptable to families rather than just singular working men. It’s quite a lovely atmosphere. 

— Peter Kormylo

“You get soft, almost wine like aromatics, refeshing… acidity and apple driven, when you try Kent and Eastern style ciders”

— Alison Taffs

What makes a Ukrainian social club special?

Ukrainian social clubs stand out because they are often decorated with traditional embroidery, sports memorabilia, historic photographs of the community and, more recently, proud displays of the distinctive Ukrainian blue and yellow flag. There is a lot of pride in those colours, as the Ukrainians that use the club actively seek to preserve their heritage.

“The Old Diaspora, my parent’s generation, were working men, so in those days there were very few bottled beers,” Peter tells me. “Because of the number of men who frequented the club, it was cask ale. Their children and grandchildren have managed to secure a lot of professional professions so they are not what you would traditionally call ‘working men’. It’s not like a pub with the spitoons and sawdust on the floor anymore, those days have gone. It’s always been punter friendly, not a problem, but now it’s more acceptable to families rather than just singular working men. It’s quite a lovely atmosphere.

“In fact, if you went into the building on any particular evening in the old days you’d probably think you’d walked back into Ukraine. Everyone was speaking Ukrainian, the young folk were singing songs and practising their dancing, reciting bits of poetry and so on. It was a little piece of Ukraine in Scotland.”

“People breaking into song or dance is completely common,” Ewhen laughingly says of Bradford’s Club. “At our last Ukrainian Festival people were quite happily breaking into an old Ukrainian folk song at two or three in the afternoon, beer in hand! That is something that really unites Ukrainians in the UK. Someone comes with an accordion and everyone will have a singsong around that or a dance.”

Every club has witnessed great occasions, like when Ukraine won Eurovision in 2022 and celebrating together as it was hosted on their behalf here in the UK. On the Ukrainian New Year (13th January), you can expect to hear the Kolomeyka, a traditional Ukrainian music, play while everyone gets up to show their best Cossack dancing. But nothing really matched the parties that took place when Ukraine declared independence from the Soviet Union on 24th August 1991.

“The old guys were so relieved and so optimistic that Ukraine had broken away from the Soviet Union,” Peter told me. “There was a lot of getting plane tickets to get back to the old country. We all did, to visit families in the villages, reconnecting after 15 years. Myself and my wife have been back to Ukraine very often. We’ve established a real network of pals and visited some beautiful places, unlike my dad and his generation who were literally exiles for most of their lives. My generation has reaped the rewards of independence and free travel.”